Friday, 20 April 2018

All It Takes is Time

Sometimes, a Project Takes a Lot of Time

This is a bit of a saga. Many, many months ago, a family friend came to me with a bag of jewelry she had inherited. It was all pretty old fashioned and she wanted to know if I could come up with ways to update some of it.

The first project was to extract a pretty oval malachite from a very traditional brooch and turn it into a very modern ring.  It was fun to work on and we were both pleased with the transformation.

The second project involved finding a way to marry up the stones from a pair of classic birthstone rings into one ring for our friend's niece. Because they were virtually the same size, it was feasible to put both the garnet and the aquamarine into one ring.

First, To Select a Design

I sketched up a few ideas and they chose the overlap with a tapered shank as a good fit for the two oval stones (see below).

Stone Removal Done (Carefully)

I took plenty of time removing the stones. Had they been in claw settings, it would have been much easier, but both were bezel mounted so it took a combination of cutters and my saw to get them out without damage.

Here, a photo of the wrecked rings and the freed stones.

That done, I set the stones aside while I prepared the ring itself. 

Making the Ring Blank

I used 18 gauge sterling for the ring, shown here wearing the paper patter I used to cut it out. 

Taking Shape

I love my shaping pliers and they were especially useful for coaxing this ring blank into the correct curve.

In the background, you can see the copper ring I made as a prototype. I needed to be sure that my design could actually be made and, just in case the answer was no, copper is a lot cheaper than sterling!  Happily, the design worked.

Ring Soldered: Next Up, Bezels For Stones

The following photos outline the next steps.

Here, the ring has been soldered and is ready to receive the stone settings.

Making those bezels took a bit of time. It's fussy work to fit silver around the little stones (5 mm by 8 mm). Once the outer bezels were done, soldered and tested for fit, I made thinner ones to fit inside. Soldered into the main bezels, they serve to support the stones so they will sit level (and not drop right through the main bezels, of course). Here they are, all ready to go.

It All Came Together — At Last

Once the bezels were soldered onto the ring, I set the stones. Once again, I worked slowly and carefully. If I shatter a stone I bought, tough luck. Shattering heirlooms is just not acceptable. I'm quite pleased with the final result. I hope its new owner will enjoy her old/new ring for many, many years.

Wednesday, 18 April 2018

More Copper Fun

A Pendant Pair of Circles

A friend recently purchased a pair of fire painted copper dangle earrings and wanted a pendant to go with them. Life has been a bit crazy lately but I finally got around to the project.

One Large Plus One Small

When I made the earrings, I cut both circles with my Pepe disc cutter.
These steel punches, driven home through steel guides with a brass hammer, make short work of creating metal circles — but only up to a one inch diameter. That worked fine for both sizes I used to make the earrings but not for the pendant. After using the cutter to get a one-inch disc for the smaller circle, I had to get my saw going to cut a larger one at 1 3/4 inches.

Ready to Link Up

Here are the two discs ready to join up for the pendant. After I cut both, I filed and sanded the edges smooth and drilled holes to accept a copper jump ring. It will hold them together and provide a way to hang the piece from a leather thong. I also sanded both faces to take out any minor scratches — the first step in preparing them for coloring. The process is similar to the Raku method used on pottery: the very hot metal is placed in a container of combustable materials. Although various materials will work with pottery, for metals, I use dry plant materials with a high resin content. Bits of pine needles and cedar twigs seem to be best.

Linked Up & Ready to Clean

Here the circles are hanging from my third hand tweezers after soldering the jump ring. The pattern you see on the copper is from the paper patterns I had glued on to guide the cuts. Once the jump ring was soldered shut, I used a scouring pad, hot water and a powdered cleanser to get the faces super clean. Only once water sheets off all of the metal surface can the fire painting process work well. Next, I torched the pendant until is was red hot and immediately dropped it into an old saucepan full of the organic materials,

Surface Protection

Generally, when I work with copper, the final step is to protect the surface with a thin coat of archival wax. It works well and can always be renewed by the eventual owner if any signs of wear begin to develop. With this pendant, however, I was concerned that there will be a slight degree of abrasion as the smaller circle —despite being gently domed —swings in front of the larger one. With that in mind, I opted to use a clear spray on finish instead. I clamped the jump ring in a pair of jewelers' tweezers and headed into the great outdoors. After checking the wind direction (duh), I held the pendant at arm's length and sprayed the clear coat on all surfaces. Finally, I hung is over the edge of a patio table to let the coating dry.

Pretty Good Match

Considering the organic, and somewhat random, coloring process, I think the pieces match up pretty well.

Thursday, 22 March 2018

Copper Experiment

Let's See How This Goes

I recently had an idea — possibly brilliant — while admiring a copper rain chain at son and daughter-in-law's house. What a cool design for a pair of earrings, thought I. This post is about my first experiment along those lines. The work is rough but I wanted to check how I might do this.

I Needed Ten Tiny Circles

Sure glad I have my disc cutter. If I had to do all these tiny guys with a saw, I wouldn't! Once I punched them out, I had to drill holes in each one. Also glad to have my Dremel drill press. The holes are not perfectly centered but I think that may add charm. We'll see.

And Tap, Tap, Tap to Dap, Dap, Dap

This set (yet another gift from World's Best Husband) and my brass hammer made a pretty fast job of shaping the circles into domes.

Several sizes are possible (although a few way too big for earrings!).

Now to Wire Them Together

Short lengths of 24 gauge copper wire provide the linkage. If I decide to make this design for sale, I will be taking far more care with these links. As I said, this is an experiment.

Voila — Rain Chain Dangles

I think they could be a lot of fun to make and to wear. All opinions welcome.

Monday, 12 March 2018

Overlap Ring

Aquamarine & Sterling Version

On January 28, I posted the early stages of making a custom ring to hold two stones a friend inherited. I was so delighted with the overlap design that I decided to make a similar one for sale in my etsy shop. The early stages were the same as posted in January. Below is progress on this version.

Soldering the Tube Setting 

This ring will have a single stone — a round 3mm aquamarine. I placed the tube setting for it off centre at the overlap. I find that more interesting than putting it in the centre. It also shows more of the gap in the overlap design.

Here, the ring is held for soldering in jewelers' tweezers secured in a "third hand". How did I ever do anything before I purchased that helper?

Make It Shine

In this picture, I have done most of the polishing of the shank and tube setting.

I sanded the shank — 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1200 grit papers — before bending and soldering it. It's just easier to do the heavy work on a flat blank. Once the parts were assembled, I started using 3M Radial Polishing Discs in ever finer grades. The early stages involve removal of fire scale — purple stains caused when heating sterling. It can take a long time to remove them and they can also be hard to see until you reach a high shine. That, of course, sends you back to the beginning. I finally learned to keep a piece of white paper handy. Placing the item on it cuts down on distracting reflections so the stains can be seen.

Next Up —Setting the Gem

I always wrap a piece in painters tape before stone setting. All setting tools are made of steel (like the burnisher in background here) and can so easily leave dents and scratches on the silver. Few things are worse than having to polish those out of your finished piece.

Here, the well wrapped ring is positioned on a sandbag for photo purposes. When setting the stone, it is held in a ring clamp. Here, I had just finished burnishing the tube setting onto the aquamarine. Next, close inspection with a magnifying glass. If the setting looks secure, I take a deep breath and toss the piece onto the bench. If the stone stays put, it's time to unwrap all that tape and do the final polishing.

All Shiny and Ready to Find a New Home

Thursday, 8 February 2018

February - Bit by Bit

Romancing the Stones

I seem to be moving very slowly with this ring, don't I? There is, however, a bit of progress to report. Having soldered the ring shut, I was concerned that the fit be perfect before soldering the stone settings on to it. If a ring is a wee bit too small, it is safe to stretch it on a steel mandrel by hammering it with a rawhide mallet. If it is too big, however, there is nothing for it but to use the torch. That is not something I would risk with the tiny settings for these stones in place. So the unfinished project is on its way to the end user for a test fitting.

Meanwhile, Back at the Bench...

I have been working on the settings for the small faceted, oval stones. I want to build step bezels for them. I think the bold design of the ring would clash with a prong setting. Creating bezel settings this small is a challenge for me as I usually work with larger stones. But, "Nothing ventured, nothing gained". Here, you can see the outer, taller, bezel and the slightly smaller, shorter one that will drop inside to support the stone. Both have been soldered shut and shaped. In this photo, I am sanding down the top and bottom so get them smooth. This is fussy work, folks, and a real test of my skill. It took quite some time (and going back to my copy of John Cogswell's Creative Stone Setting) before I felt ready to even start this process.

Settings Must Protect the Stones

In this photo, I am test fitting the aquamarine. It looks pretty good. I will view it under a very strong magnifying glass before I commit to it, however. The amount the silver rises above the edge of the stone is utterly critical. Too much would result in a messy setting and would cover too much of the stone. Not enough, and the stone would not be secure and could be lost. With a purchased stone, that would be very sad. With a stone that once belonged to Grandma, it would be tragic.

With this one (probably) ready, I went to work on an identical step bezel for the garnet. Both will require very close inspection before I can consider them usable.

Bezels Built (I Hope)

Tuesday, 30 January 2018